All tagged 1st arrondissement

a grand entrance

New York’s Grand Central Station has its iconic constellation ceiling that entices even the most harried commuters to look up. The lofty iron roof at Paris’ Gare Saint-Lazare is captured in Monet’s masterpiece, in which his impressionist clouds and steam capture the romance of train travel. Here in Marseille, the Gare Saint-Charles has a grand staircase that spills into the city. Flanked by majestic statues and palm trees with rows of Art Nouveau bronze dolphin lampposts cascading down the middle, the escaliers make you feel like a royal descending into a ball, even when lugging an awkward suitcase. There’s so much architectural eye candy the stairs are a destination in its own right. Here’s some backstory for my fellow history buffs. 

catch of the day

Like my former stomping ground, Seattle, Marseille has a surprising lack of decent fish restaurants for a city centered on the fishing industry. There are tourist traps that dish overpriced bouillabaisse and bistros that serve fish drowning in fanciful sauces. Yet, when fish is freshly plucked from the sea, it simply needs a glug of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and a dash of salt and pepper. Luckily, there is Boîte á Sardine.